Clarity

Clarity? I think I figured it out. I enjoy climbing! I enjoy that it is hard, that it is a challenge. I don't enjoy training. I do enjoy being strong.

See my dilemma?

I think I will just keep trying to find projects that inspire me to train for them and "just keep on trucking". This year I have done hard problems (for me), but I haven't really done any training for this except to go out and enjoy myself, often. I feel that I am continually getting stronger and this though causes my dilemma. What if? OK I am going to try to be content with how I am. I am improving, I am strong (even if only for me, but why should I compare myself to others?), and although I do have times that are tough, I am enjoying myself.

Conclusion: Keep climbing! It's also the challenge that keeps it interesting.

Now I lay thee down to sleep...

I do have great news for you. I have found the ultimate training routine. Rest and relaxation and some beer drinking. What? you say. For the last 2 months I have been dealing with the frustration of working more than one project (maybe you can understand this). I have been doing nothing but pounding them, always making a "little" bit of improvement here and a little there, but without being able to close down a project. I have been so close for so long I was afraid I might go completely crazy. Now back to the new training routine, 3 days rest, no climbing specific training just yard work, and a few beers everyday. I wasn't thinking about the projects, mostly because the weather forecast was for rain, just relaxing. Then there it was, the temps cooled down a little the rain is coming later. SHIT! I feel a little hungover and I wasn't mentally prepared for today. Oh well let's just try anyway. My warm up felt easy, cool! Second burn on the warm up and the sun is in my eyes, but I just laughed. And third burn on my warm up I just closed my eyes and did it. OK time for the business. Today I don't feel any pressure, I think I won't even yell on the first move, which has been crucial for me. OK let's try, but try hard. First move latch the left hand, done, it's not perfect but good enough, OK left foot now the right heel, solid the heel is buried. Now cross into the match, damn that felt good OK move the feet, holy shit I still feel strong, OK now everything you've got, fire to the lip. Nice not perfect you hit a little to the right but it's fine, slight adjustment, OK focus it's easy now, bury the right heel, good, now pull hard with it and grab the jug. OK it's done just turn the heel to a toe and flag the left under and grab the jug. WOW! I did it! 12 days of effort but now it's all over. I feel really good, happy, satisfied, content. Now the next...

Here's a link to a video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hcB2l5mqODk

Done, or maybe not!

So I finally made the move on my project and now I just need to finish up on a V4 or 5. No problem right? WRONG! I froze. After I was to gassed to get there again. Now everyday I have tried this problem I have made progress, but I still haven't closed it. Should I be happy I am continually doing better or should I be frustrated that I haven't finished yet? For me both. I feel that for me it is probably a mental hurdle now more than a physical one and this is the frustrating part. To see myself come so close and yet find a way to fail is tough to digest.

So here it is. This is a hard problem for me. I have spent a lot of time on this. I will be so excited to finish this. Why? For the grade? I don't believe so. I feel that in the beginning I knew that for me this problem was very hard, but I felt that it was possible. So now that I am so close to the end I can look back and be proud of my efforts. And I can finally say "I DID IT"!

Under the project!

Springtime

Spring I feel is when most climbers start to get excited about climbing. They have made it through a dark and dreary winter and now the sun is shining and warming the rock. For me I get scared! I try not to panic, I try not to think about how much time is left before the heat of the summer arrives. I long for the days of winter when I had the rocks to myself, when the temps were between 20* to 40*. Cold crisp days when the slopers feel sticky.

Ok so I am going to be calm. I going to focus on having fun, on pushing myself harder, and yes I have to admit try to tick some projects. Things are going well for me now. I am felling strong and I am very close to finishing some projects. I also have a trip coming up with Jess and I am really looking forward to seeing a new place. It's awesome that I keep learning new things and increasing my strength even now that I'm an old man.

Here's looking to the future!